I recently watched a very interesting video from Emil Abrahamsson about his and his brother's recent fingerboard experiment. They done some gentle 10 minutes fingerboard sessions twice a day, for 30 days non-stop, and reported not only impressive finger strength gains but also the healing of old finger injuries. Interesting to watch is also a in-depth analysis of this protocol and its pitfalls made by Dr Jason Hooper.
I genuinely believe that if done correctly, i.e., at light and mindful loads, this can be executed safely although I am pretty clueless but genuinely curious on what sort of gains and healings a weak but injured climber like myself would achieve.
What called my attention the most was Emil's brothers comments about how he noticed a lot of the nagging feelings he experienced when bouldering to just disappear. Been someone who has injured his fingers a lot and constantly feel tweaks and weird sensations on them, this experiment really appeals to me. Add to that the fact that I am naturally finger weak and really struggle to build and maintain any sort of strength - and that I am also willing to injured myself in the process of trying to improve - and you have a real irresistible experiment, hah! :-D
I will be reporting my progress in here, after 2 and 4 weeks. My personal version of the protocol will be as follows:
Rules
Mon until Friday, 2x/day
At least 6h between any climbing sessions
On days that I do proper Fingerboard/Climbing I will either skip these or use them as part of the warm up since they are gentle on the fingers.
My 11' Daily Protocol (@ Beastmaker 1000)
No Feet
1. Half Crimp @ Deep Pckt: 1x
With Feet on the floor
2. Half Crimp @ Lwr Edge: 3x 10s On 50s Off
3. 3-Finger Drag @ Shallow Pckt: 2x
4. Mid Outer 2-Finger Drag @ Pckt: 1x
5. Mid Inner 2-Finger Drag @ Pckt: 1x
6. Mid Outer 2-Finger Pckt @ Pckt: 1x
7. Mid Inner 2-Finger Pckt @ Pckt: 1x
8. Pinkies @ Pckt: 1x
References